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This category contains 14 posts

Victor Barry

Just as Kobe Desramaults announced the closure of In de Wulf in December 2016, closer to home, I received rather upsetting (though understood) news: my favourite restaurant in Toronto, Splendido, was closing. In an exclusive for the Globe & Mail last month (A Splendido run: Chef Victor Barry closing Toronto fine-dining institution), chef-owner, and industry friend, Victor … Continue reading

Toronto’s New Sweets Brigade: David Chow, Stephanie Duong, Christinn Hua, Cori Murphy, and Sanober Motiwala

When I was in university I said, “I just want to retire and open an ice cream shop.” But I didn’t have to retire to do it. Haha. I always joked about it with my friends. I was obsessed with the idea of opening up a liquid nitrogen ice cream shop seven years ago. A … Continue reading

Terroir 2015’s Culinary Mission to St. John’s: An Update

It’s largely accepted that a dish – and arguably the chef creating it – is only as good as its ingredients. In a package looking at the cod stock and Newfoundland’s fishing industry in this week’s Globe & Mail (hinted in last week’s post) both writer Sasha Chapman and I wrote about things we learned during … Continue reading

Stories in Progress: Terroir Symposium’s Best Practice Culinary Mission, St. John’s

I think one of the key issues here is that you have one of the most recognizable brands here in Canada in Newfoundland. You are selling a dream. And part of that dream is your food culture. And if people come here to visit and they can’t actually have that experience, all the money and … Continue reading

Kolapore Springs Fish Hatchery: Sean Brady

A tribute to trout farmer Sean Brady whose incredible ingredients are an inspiration to our kitchen. The life cycle of a trout starts with clay pepper spiced roe. The roe then becomes trout alevin that we have prepared “in Carpione.” The baby rainbow fillet has been treated in the style of an anchovy [or sardine], … Continue reading

Arron Barberian

As one of the city’s great culinary treasures, Barberian’s Steak House isn’t just the oldest licensed white tablecloth restaurant (circa 1959), but also houses the largest of wines in the country. When Arron Barberian and his father, Harry, bought back their business in 1994, they were greeted with a general, 60-bottle wine list (and nothing … Continue reading

Wayne Morris & Evelyn Wu

Canadian food is not just the amalgamation of different ethnicities, nationalities, and cultures that settled here over the past 400 years – it is the evolution of the food that these people brought over here, driven by their need to adapt to indigenous ingredients. – Evelyn Wu Morris, co-owner Boralia, a restaurant that opened Toronto last December … Continue reading

Massimo Bottura

She said, ‘the kitchen is like a family.’ We have a rule to eat together before service, after lunch and before dinner. And now at Osteria Francescana, we all eat together at the same time: waiting staff, service, chefs, the office… one whole team. It’s not that the dishwasher is different from the chef. Absolutely … Continue reading

Han Brothers: Leemo & Leeto Han

Even though my brother’s not involved, HANMOTO comes from our names. The TO is Leeto; the MO is me.  – Leemo Han, chef-owner of Oddseoul, Hanmoto, and recently shuttered Swish by Han. Han’s menus are clever modern, American-influenced twists of familiar Korean and Japanese izakaya flavours. La Bête sketch on Hanmoto’s Instagram: La Bête Introducing on TorontoLife: Hanmoto, a Little Portugal izakaya … Continue reading

Nick Saul

We live in a very divided city. One in three kids live in poverty. 145,000 kids live in poverty. There are 118,000 Millionaires in Toronto. That’s one example of how we live in two worlds. When you live in two worlds, you don’t know one another’s stories, which is a big problem to me. Rexdale … Continue reading

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